Places, activities, and events that I adore, and unsolicited endorsements of businesses and products
that I am genuinely enthusiastic about and highly recommend.

BIKE SHOPS...Cicli BERMA in Padua (Padova), the folks who built my current bikes. The owners, the Bertocco family, can always be counted upon to give honest and expert advice; their technical knowledge and mechanical expertise are second to none, and they are fine people besides. It's a place where you can still purchase a truly custom, made-in-Italy bike: tubing (including carbon fiber), measurements, angles, components, color scheme, graphics and all. They are not only a Campy Pro Shop, but a favored dealer. Other shops that I frequent are Cicli the Best in Fellette di Romano d'Ezzelino (Leopoldo Ceccon, proprietor), Cicli Zavarise in Cornuda (Luca Zavarise, prop.), and Polo Bike in the Marchesane section of Bassano del Grappa. There are plenty of fine shops and mechanics throughout the Veneto, each with its own faithful following.

(at right) The Bertoccos of Cicli BERMA: Daniele, Roberto, the late Antonio (their dad), Enrico and his father, the late, beloved Renzo. Renzo's daughter Nicoletta is also one of the crew. BERMA was originally an acronym for BERtocco MArio, who founded the company in the 1930's; it later came to stand for BErtocco Renzo, Mario, and Antonio).

My latest BERMA (#3)
FRAME GX2 (by Oria) carbon fiber monocoque
FORK Advanced carbon fiber
LEVERS, BRAKES, DERAILLEURS, CASSETTE Chorus 10-speed
CRANKSET FSA Carbon Pro Team Issue triple (30-39-53)
BOTTOM BRACKET FSA Platinum Pro
HEADSET Campagnolo Chorus
SEATPOST ITM K Sword carbon fiber
HUBS & SKEWERS PMP
RIMS Mavic Open Pro
TIRES Michelin Pro Lite
PEDALS Look Keo
HANDLEBARS ITM K Sword carbon fiber
STEM ITM Millenium
SADDLE SMP Strike Lite 209
BOTTLE CAGES Eleven
COMPUTER Garmin Edge 305

CYCLEWEAR...Maglificio Sportivo Jolanda in Tencarola di Selvazzano, just outside of Padua. I ride for the club they sponsor, GS Maglificio Jolanda. They are the official suppliers of race kits for the Selle Italia-Ghezzi (formerly Menikini Gysko), the pro women's squad. (Via Euganea, Tencarola di Selvazzano; 049-8055580)
at right,our team jersey, and Team Menikini

CYCLING SHOES...I've had a chance to visit the SIDI factory, which is not far from my home. I couldn't help but be impressed by owner Dino Signori (SIDI is composed of the first two letters of his last and first names), a man dedicated to excellence, and always seeking innovative ways to improve his already legendary shoes, which exhibit the ultimate in design, quality materials, and fine workmanship. But just as important, the friendly and down-to-earth Sig. Signori and his staff treat everyone, from their dealers to their customers, with consideration and respect. If a cyclist has a problem with his shoes, Mr. Signori wants to solve it, no matter if he's a pro or an cicloturista. "Cycling is a hard enough sport as it is," he says, "without suffering because of your shoes."

BIKE SADDLE...A new favorite!--the SMP Strike Lite 209. The entire line of Strike saddles has the same unique, eye-catching design, which was developed from studies and analyses of the way a cyclist's anatomy interacts with the saddle in various positions and situations. I have found it to be the most comfortable saddle I've ever used in 35 years of riding. Polo Bike has Strike saddles that you can demo, so you can find the one that suits you best.

TRAINING & RECOVERY AID...my Compex muscle electrostimulator, a delight for tired, aching legs.

SECRET WEAPON...acupuncture! Improved functioning and pain relief...without drugs.

ICE CREAM & PASTRY SHOPS...Pasticceria San Gaetano in Castelcucco makes superb ice cream--dense, creamy, intensely flavorful--and offers a large selection of interesting flavors (closed Wednesdays). Gelateria di Gimmy in Feltre (Via Martiri della Libertà, near the hospital), has the seal of quality from the National Park of the Bellunese Dolomites, and mastro gelataio Andrea Reato creates many delightful flavors using ingredients cultivated within the park borders (fruits, nuts, berries e.g.), plus other unique ones such as saffron, cinnamon, ginger, and beer! (I've suggested polenta). The renowned Pasticceria Garbujo in Feltre, is superb. Their exclusive recipes for traditional cakes and cookies (and some new ones, like "torta alla birra" - beer cake!) are made with all-natural ingredients and also have the Park seal of quality. They don't have outside tables, but if you ask i signori Carlo or Roberto, they'll be glad to open the back gate so you can park your bike in a secure courtyard and sit inside. (0439-2316).

EATERIES..I love agriturismi and rifugi, as I prefer genuine, simple, hearty food, served in a rustic atmosphere, to fancy cuisine in an elegant restaurant. For help in finding your own favorite places to eat and stay, visit the official Veneto region agriturismo site. (Beware, though, many agriturismi are fake, that is, they're merely trattorie in disguise, craftily taking advantage of the numerous financial benefits accorded to farm touring establishments, but offering food procured from the same suppliers as restaurants. If it looks too fancy or features too much nostalgic country decor, it's probably not the real thing). If you're planning a visit to the Feltre-Belluno-Agordino area, consult the site of the National Park of the Bellunese Dolomites. The park certifies each and every establishment on the list, assuring high quality traditional cuisine prepared with wholesome, genuine products from local farmers.

PIZZA....excellent pizzerie abound, but the unique, extraordinary tartufo nero (black truffle) pizza served by the Baita Flora Alpina is a standout. You'll find it in the Val Fiorentina, just before the start of the climb to Forcella Staulanza, at the foot of stunning Monte Pelmo, which turns an orangey rose at sunset. One evening when I was eating there after a Giro stage, I found myself singing Take Me Home Country Roads, while a fellow cyclist strummed the guitar.

PROSECCO WINE...Agostinetto. While riding through the tiny hamlet of Saccol, just south of Valdobbiadene (one of the capitals of Prosecco) many years ago, I struck up a conversation with Signor Bruno Agostinetto, vineyard owner and winemaker. He invited me into the cantina for a free sample, and it was...love at first taste! One of my happiest memories is of harvesting their Prosecco grapes, high up on the steep and rugged hillsides. There is singing, hearty lunches around a big table, a jolly atmosphere, and clothes hopelessly stained with mud and grape juice. The harvest is an autumnal rite, an age-old tradition linking us to the past. You can visit their charming and inviting cantina, taste the wine, and of course, buy some for yourself. (0423-972884)

Bruno Agostinetto, at left, oversees the Prosecco harvest,
along with his son Daniele

LOCAL BEER...The Pedavena brewery, in the town of Pedavena (where the climb to Passo Croce d'Aune begins), just north of Feltre, has been making award-winning beer since 1897. The adjacent restaurant and beer garden have welcomed generations of local families and visitors from all over the world. It's more than just an inviting, casual place where you can drop in anytime for great beer (the Centenario--centennial--beer is a favorite) and a bite to eat. It's a renowned, beloved institution which is an integral part of the local history, culture, tradition and identity. Until January of 2006 the brewery belonged to Heinekin, which closed it down. A committee fought hard to find a new owner and to "persuade" Heinekin to sell it. Fortunately, it was purchased by the Castello company of Udine, and the grand brewing tradition continues. On June 11, 2006, la prima cotta was celebrated with a festival, and I was delighted to be on hand to drink a glass of that first batch. The disrespectful Heinekin sign was removed, and the proud, historic Pedavena logo once again graces the factory wall.
Master brewer Gianni Pasa put the finishing touches on their newest creation: Dolomiti, an ultra-premium quality beer made with barley grown in the communities of the National Park of the Bellunese Dolomites, and water that originates in the mountains north of town, also within the confines of the park.

MOUNTAIN HIDEAWAY...Chalet Piereni in Val Canali (Trentino region), between Fiera di Primiero and Passo Cereda. We happened upon this enchanted place in 1970, and have been going back ever since. The Zagonel family has, over the years, enlarged their little hotel and added amenities, but the valley itself is within a national park and will remain forever undeveloped and unspoiled. You can sit outside at night, feel the powerful presence of the mountains, marvel at the huge starry sky, and hear nothing but the soothing sound of the rushing torrent far below. (0439-62348) You can read still more about it (in Italian) on the Girovagando in Trentino site. Click on Archivio, then Primavera 2003>Valle di Primiero.

CITY...Feltre, a charming, cheerful, lovely, and lively little city at the foot of the Dolomites. The historic center includes a steep street, Via Mezzaterra, lined with porticoes, colorful frescoes, fountains, and flowers cascading from window boxes, leading to a wonderful piazza. You can even visit the Roman city that lies beneath the piazza in front of the duomo. I also love Vittorio Veneto, which is darker and more austere, but like Feltre, offers a masterpiece piazza, inviting medieval streets, a castle, mountain environs, and a fascinating history.

MEDIEVAL HANGOUT...The Zumelle Castle in Mel, province of Belluno. This stark, classic castle set against the spectacular backdrop of the Dolomites, offers a museum, characteristic inn and restaurant, and thrilling atmosphere. (Via San Donà, 4; 0437-747049).

FESTIVALS...the Palio di Feltre, a competition between the four contrade of Feltre, featuring a renowned medieval pageant with a street market, flag throwers, processions of knights and nobles in authentic costumes, athletic contests, open air shows, bareback horse race, and more. (1st weekend of August). The Artigianato Vivo festival (2nd week of August) turns the entire town of Cison di Valmarino into a showplace for artists, artisans, musicians, and crafters. Torchlit rustic courtyards, palaces, charming old barns, and cozy stone houses provide a unique backdrop and magical atmosphere for displaying their wares. It's always an interesting town to visit. It's the starting point of a unique and delightful path called the Via dei Mulini, which follows a stream past old mills, taking you back in time. The Cafè Roma is an inviting place to eat a hot sandwich and relax. Arte e Natura is a charming festival that takes place in September along a lovely route that winds through the hills between the hamlets of Costalunga, Bocca di Serra, and Castelcies, in the comune of Cavaso del Tomba. Artists, sculptors, photographers (including yours truly), poets, crafters, and musicians create an enchanting atmosphere.
Note: an excellent calendar of festivals and events can be found on www.venetando.it.

my friends and I head out for a stroll after lunch at the Chalet Piereni

(right) My husband, Alan, and friends Silvano and Marisa at the start of the enchanting Via dei Molini

MUSIC...Tolo Marton. I never miss a live show of Italy's greatest rock guitarist, who's known as far away as Austin, Texas, and was the winner of the Jimi Hendrix International Guitar Competition in Seattle. Defying categorization, always fresh and original, yet somehow evoking deeply buried musical memories, Tolo serves up a dazzling but never gratuitous array of techniques that surprise and astound even his loyal followers, while retaining a wonderful sense of musicality and taste, and his genious for improvisation is legendary. Tolo's passion and respect for his art and instrument shine through in every note. His touch is deft, sure, and sensitive, his tone warm and rich, his mastery total. There's nothing he can't do on a guitar! In addition, he is a fine song writer, each of whose numerous compositions has its own individuality and identity. This is genuine, "handcrafted" music straight from the heart and soul of a genius. His instrumental classic, Alpine Valley, continues to bring audiences to an awed and reverent silence. He's recently released his second live album, stralive. His previous live work, Dal Vero, released in fall 2002, received rave reviews. To hear and see Tolo on YouTube, click here. You can also buy his songs on the iTunes store.

(left) Tolo on stage, Vittorio Veneto, June 2005.

(right) Venice, 1999. After the show, Tolo and the band wheel their equipment towards a canal, where a waiting boat will carry them back to the mainland. Only in Italy!

The cover of Tolo's highly acclaimed double CD (2 hours and 27 minutes!). If you love great guitar playing, this is for you!

ENCHANTING JOURNEY...getting there is all the fun when you travel on a old-time train pulled by a restored steam locomotive. A number of these wonderful trips are organized each year and I've gone on several of them. They route is always scenic and there's usually a festival or guided tour (or even a bike ride) at the destination, but the train ride is the real attraction: all along the route, people stand by the tracks and hang out of windows, waving and smiling; they film the train from moving cars and crowd the stations. Surprised motorists burst into large grins. On one trip, a brass band was playing as we rolled into Belluno. The fascinating sights and sounds of the train fill people of all ages with pure, childlike delight.

You can find a schedule of trips, and plenty of photos, on the website of the Associazione Veneta Treni Storici.

You can also visit the Railtour Italia site, which has a calender for the entire country, organized by region.

MOTORCYCLE...my 1995 Aprilia Pegaso, whose still-snazzy looks belie its weenie 50cc engine.

FOOTBALL (SOCCER) TEAM...Cittadella, a small, medieval walled city (in Padua province), not far from where I used to live; it stole my heart when I first saw it back in the 60's. Isn't this a good enough reason to root for a team? They're competing in Serie B again this season. Forza granata!

...a sheep in wolf's clothing

©2001-2010 The BiciVeneto lion logo and all text and photos on this site are, unless otherwise noted, the sole property of April Pedersen Santinon. Duplication, reproduction, or use of the text, images, and photos without the author's permission is strictly prohibited.